Shaw and Tenney - Maine Crafted Since 1858

The Making of a Shaw & Tenney Wooden Canoe Paddle

The Making of a Shaw & Tenney Wooden Canoe Paddle

Our craftsmen have been making our handcrafted canoe paddles the same way for over 150 years. Today we still use much of the same equipment that we did when water-powered in 1858.  Our paddles are considered by many to be the finest traditional wooden paddles in the World. Here is a glimpse into how we make them.

 

Wood Selection & First Cuts

Every paddle starts with one of our craftsmen selecting a piece of wood from our stock. Our paddles are made by traditional methods using a single piece of wood.  All our wood must be clear and free from any defects to become a Shaw & Tenney paddle.  We offer eight species of wood for the Penobscot canoe paddle, each with different weight, flex, and appearance characteristics. From native Maine ash to beautiful clear cherry, to radiant curly maple, each of our wooden paddles is unique.

Once the board is selected, the paddle pattern is traced on using one of our many templates.  Some of our templates are over 100 years old and are still in use.  Occasionally we find an old pattern up in the rafters and re-introduce it like we did with our Model 150 for our 150th Anniversary.

Next, the board goes to the band saw, where the craftsman carefully cuts out the paddle blank but this is just the beginning of the process of crafting the paddle.  All the excess wood is used; we are 100% sustainable in our shop. We make miniature paddles, oars, and canoes, all wood under 12” is kindling, and our sawdust and shavings go to the University farm as bedding for the young cows.

 

Rough Shaping

The next step in the process is creating the initial blade shape on the slab saw.  This tool was powered by water in our original shop as were many you will see in this video series. The paddle is clamped in place and moves on a sliding carriage into the saw.  Because our paddles are solid wood the craftsmen have to compensate as the wood moves.  The blade may have equal wood taken off each side or all on one side or anywhere in between dependent on how the wood moves.

The grip of the paddle is carefully cut by eye on the band saw next.

Finally the paddle shaft is routed into an oval shape.  Our oval shape shaft fits more comfortably in your hand and is more pleasant to use the more typical round shaft.

The cornering saw is next and it is where the incredible hand – eye coordination of our craftsmen becomes essential.  All the cuts here to detail the blade shape, the rib, and the edge thickness are all free hand.  We have found that the art of handcrafting our paddles is a skill that you either have or don’t, but it still takes years to master.

 

Fine Shaping

Nowhere is the skill of our craftsmen more evident than on the drum sanders. The large drum sanders are used to make the final shape of all the components of our Penobscot handmade wooden canoe paddle.  Our drum sanders are custom made specifically for our process.  The first step is to shape the blade on our 36 grit drum sander; this is where the majority of the remaining wood is removed. The 80 grit drum sander is then used to carefully sand edges of the blade to a uniform 1/4” and the rib transitioning the shaft into the blade is made symmetrical and straight.  Next the grip is crafted into its final shape and the blade is made perfectly symmetrical. The relatively thin blade dimensions, rounded grip contours, and shaft shape all combine to provide the exceptional flex and lightweight of all Shaw & Tenney traditional paddles. Our craftsmen must apply precise pressures and have excellent hand dexterity to make our paddles properly. The final step on the large drum sanders is finishing paddle shaft.  It takes allot of skill to spin an oval shaft on a 36” drum sander.

 

Final Drum Sanding

The last step in shaping our handcrafted wooden canoe paddles is done on our pneumatic drum sanders.  The craftsmen very carefully finalized the shape of the paddle and ease all the edges to provide the exceptional comfort characteristic of a solid traditional wooden paddle. We start with the 100 grit sandpaper drum and move up to the 120 as we near completion of this step.  Each craftsman will vary the air pressure in the drum to his or her own particular taste based on the paddle model and wood species. We also insure that all sanding scratches are fully removed from the wood.  Last the grip is sanded on a vertical sandpaper board to its final contour.

 

Final Touches

To complete our Ash Penobscot paddle finishing process, we begin with a thorough hand sanding with 180 grit paper and then burn our trademark Shaw & Tenney logo on the blade of paddle.  The finisher will feel the entire surface of the paddle to ensure it is perfectly smooth and shaped before proceeding.

Next, we hand apply sealer to penetrate the wood and provide a good base to apply varnish. We wipe off the excess sealer to make the surface as smooth as possible.  After drying 24 hours the paddle is completely hand sanded again to smooth the wood grain. It is now ready to be dipped in the varnish tank and hung to dry for 24 hours.  A final sanding with 220 grit sandpaper followed by 400 grit sandpaper prepares the paddle for its second and last dip.

This process provides a finish which is equivalent to 6 hand applied brush coats.  There are approximately 26 gallons of varnish in our tank system and we carefully control the viscosity to ensure a superior finish. We also offer an oil finish on most of our paddles as well.

Once completed, the paddle is carefully packaged for shipment to our customer.  We only use recyclable cardboard and brown paper in our packaging to maintain our commitment to 100% sustainability. Each paddle includes card with the name of the person who handcrafted it and a brief story of the history of Shaw & Tenney.

Each Shaw & Tenney paddle is meticulously designed to deliver years of enjoyment on the water, and equal admiration for their hand-crafted beauty when off. From our simple workshop on the banks of the Penobscot River, our craftsmen still employ time-honored manufacturing traditions, seen here, that may seem old-world by today’s standards, but are the only way to render a product worthy of our name, and your trust.

 

If you've enjoyed our videos, be sure to keep an eye on our YouTube Channel

 

 

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How to Size Your Oars

To determine the correct length oar for your boat measure the distance between the port and starboard oar sockets. Then apply the Shaw and Tenney oar length formula to determine the oar length that will provide the correct 7:18 leverage ratio. This length will provide an oar where 7/25 the length is inboard of the oarlocks and 18/25 of the oar is outboard of the oarlocks. It is the ideal ratio to row almost all boats. Sized correctly, when rowing your hands will be 1 to 3 inches apart and you will be pulling directly towards your abdomen. If you are popping out of your oarlocks when rowing your oars are far too short. If you prefer an overlapping grip, add 6” to the calculated oar length. If you have more than one rowing station in your boat, measure both. Typically they will require two different length oars which is fine if you’re going to be rowing tandem and need two sets. Otherwise you’ll need to compromise the correct length to work properly in both stations. If you are rowing more than 75% in one station size the oar to that length. As always feel free to call us and were happy to help you select the correct oar length and blade style for your boat.

The Original Shaw & Tenney Oar Length Formula

To help our customers size their oars correctly, we’ve been using the same formula since 1858: Measure the distance between the center of the port and starboard oar sockets, which hold the oar locks on each gunnel. This is called the “span” between the oarlocks. Divide the span by 2, and then add 2 to this number. The result is called the “inboard loom length” of the oar. Multiply the loom length by 25, and then divide that number by 7. The result is the proper oar length in inches. Round up or down to the closest 6” increment.

How to Size Your Paddle

For traditional wooden paddles the ideal length for the Stern paddler is the bridge of your nose or 6 inches less than your height. For the bow paddler the paddle reaching the cleft of your chin or 9 inches less than your height is correct.

For our Racine paddle if you are over 5’6” tall select the 63-1/2” length and the shorter paddle if you are under5’-6”tall.

When paddling solo we typically recommend a bow length paddle. For Canadian style solo most paddlers prefer an even shorter paddle.

For paddling canoes when standing (yes our mother let us do this) a 69 inch or 72 inch paddle is usually about right.

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